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    Far From the World Cup, the Essence of Argentine Soccer Expands its Reach

    BUENOS AIRES — The essence of Argentine soccer can be found late at night, in the circuit of games in barrios outside Buenos Aires.There, young players for generations have cut their teeth, maybe dreaming of suiting up for the country’s national team, but primarily entertaining late-night and early-morning crowds with an intense, wild talent for the game, playing on whatever patch of ground.“Potrero” is the term that sums up this system and style, rooted in the informal and improvised games born in the earthy, amateur fields of the 19th century, long before soccer became a profession with billion-dollar clubs and multimillion-dollar salaries. Every Argentine legend has had it in his blood: Alfredo Di Stéfano, Diego Maradona, Lionel Messi. They all kicked around in potreros, and when someone dribbles impressively or scores an amazing goal, it’s common for people to say, “That’s potrero.”Franco Roldán, 26, said playing potrero helped him sustain his family while he was unemployed.Alan Matijasevic, 29, plays for El Ciclón de Burzaco, which offers soccer for people anywhere from age 5 to 80. His son Gio, 7, is a in a recreational program.Now, the games have taken a modern twist.Today’s young players have expanded the reach of their circuit by streaming the games, and Argentina’s win in the World Cup final this month in Qatar could bring them even more attention.Even before then, by word of mouth, WhatsApp and Instagram, interest in the circuit’s games had mushroomed from only a few dozen followers before the coronavirus pandemic — mostly coming from the teams’ neighborhoods in the cities ringing Buenos Aires — to thousands of people connected across the country and beyond. Last June, even a Mexican soccer fan page shared a video of La Sub 21, a respected potrero team, and the clip reached 4.4 million views.There are now some accounts, like Potrero Nato or Corta y al pie, dedicated to showing the best of potrero.Roldán hangs up his football jerseys in his house’s courtyard. He is one of the emblematic players of the “la sub 21” team,a potrero team.Villa Jardin where Roldán lives. In Argentina, soccer was learned and developed popularly in free spaces or parks, called “potreros”, without any institutional supervision or preparation for its practice.Roldán with his son before a match.Matijasevic trying to win the ball back during his match.Roldán and the players of La Sub 21 team talk and rest after a Friday night match.La Sub 21, El Ciclón de Burzaco and other teams sell hundreds of their uniforms every time they release a new one. Potrero jerseys are increasingly visible on Buenos Aires buses and subways.“Some people write us on social media asking us to play in Patagonia or Córdoba province, but we can’t afford the transportation,” said Franco Roldán, 26, who is known as Franquito and plays for La Sub 21.While he was unemployed, playing for the club helped sustain his family.“During the time I had no job, I knew if my team won games I could buy milk for my son,” Roldán, who has a 1-year-old, said.As a teenager, he played for Atlanta, a traditional second division team. But the club didn’t offer him a professional contract when he turned 18 and Roldán had to quit the dream.For Alan Matijasevic, 29, and many of his neighbors from Burzaco, a Buenos Aires suburb, El Ciclón is the barrio’s heart. The club was founded by a group of families in 1989 and ever since has offered recreational soccer for everyone 5 to 80 years old, including Matijasevic’s 7-year-old son Gio.The “family vibe” of potrero is what keeps Matijasevic playing, he said, even after 24-hour days.It is common to see children playing on the field during halftimes, even in early morning hours.The potrero system works like this: Teams arrange a five-on-five match, compete for a pot, typically around $1,000 put up by the players or sponsors, and the winner takes all. In general, a team organizes a potrero night, which features four or five games starting at 11 p.m. and finishing around 4 a.m. or 5 a.m. Over time, the players have gotten to know each other and many of them might play for a different team every week, depending on which club is short a player.The games never seem to lack an audience and it is common to see children, even toddlers, playing on the field during halftime of a match, even in early morning hours. The potrero games have become an hourslong social event.A recent potrero match for Matijasevic started at 7 a.m. and, by the time all the games and cleanup finished, 24 hours had passed.Susana Andrade Acuña, the ticket seller at every El Ciclón de Burzaco event, has watched players grow up.Veronica Gonzalez and Juan Paz working the bar.Many fans and spectators line the edge of the fields during the match.“Our club is like a family and I know some of the players since they were shorter than the table I sit at,’’ she said.Roldán performance in potrero clubs got the interest of the futsal division of Huracán, a premier Argentina soccer club that hired him in January.Jeremías Píriz, 26, said participating in potrero soccer gave him stability after a trying time in his life.He played potrero while training for a first division team’s junior squad to get extra money. But in 2019 the club dismissed him for showing up late after potrero games and some months later his 12-year-old brother died of a heart attack.“It was the end for me. I didn’t want to have nothing to do with anything,” Píriz said.After hardly doing anything for months, he started running and training again and found his way back to potrero.“I came back and found a lot of people happy just to see me on the field,” he said. “That was a relief and I promised my brother I’d keep playing for him.”Teams and players have increased their followings through social media.Recently, the first women’s teams have begun competing in the potrero circuit, including Las Ñeris, Las Flores and Chingolo.In the end, that “family vibe,” Matijasevic said, is what, after 24 hours in the club, keeps him playing.Last summer, he recalled, he was away on vacation in a distant province and coming out of a river with his Ciclón de Burzaco jersey on.Suddenly someone shouted at him: ‘Hey, El Ciclón de Burzaco!”Locals recognized him as a player and asked him for a picture.“I was touched and proud of how far our work has gone,” he said. “My club is the best place to refresh my mind and my barrio is the place where I love living.”The night ends at around 5:30 a.m., when the sun is starting to rise. 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    World Cup Homecoming Brings Argentina to a Halt

    As Argentina’s national soccer team touched down in Buenos Aires on Tuesday after winning the World Cup, millions of Argentines flocked to greet the players. The government declared their homecoming a national holiday, and the team began a 50-mile victory parade through the capital.The team toured the city on an open-top bus flanked by security guards, and players were seen beating drums and sipping viajeros, a local drink that combines Coca-Cola with Fernet, an Italian spirit, downed from a cutoff plastic bottle. So many people turned out to welcome the team around the Obelisco, a downtown monument, that the caravan had to change course at the last minute because of security concerns.The celebrations have been constant since Argentina won its third World Cup title on Sunday. The night of the victory, more than a million people streamed into Avenida 9 de Julio, in the heart of the capital, chanting songs, blaring car horns and setting off fireworks.Here are scenes from what may be the biggest open-air party in Buenos Aires’s history.— Ana LankesBy The Associated PressMillions of people celebrated in Buenos Aires after Argentina’s national team delivered the country’s third World Cup victory.Natacha Pisarenko/Associated PressLeandro Paredes held the World Cup trophy aloft as he and his teammates sang with supporters along the parade route.Marcelo Endelli/Getty ImagesThe Obelisk at the center of Buenos Aires, which commemorates the founding of the city, was so full of supporters that it forced a last-minute change in the parade route.Emiliano Lasalvia/Agence France-Presse — Getty ImagesFans around the Obelisk climbed onto everything that could hold them, including street lamps and the awnings above bus stations.Natacha Pisarenko/Associated PressSeated on the back of the bus, Lionel Messi and his teammates started the journey from the Ezeiza training center to downtown Buenos Aires shortly before noon on Tuesday.Cristina Sille/ReutersAccompanied by trumpets, drums or sometimes nothing at all, Argentina supporters have been singing seemingly since the start of the final match on Sunday.Matilde Campodonico/Associated PressImages of Messi alongside the legendary Argentine soccer player Diego Maradona were unfurled throughout the capital.Marcelo Endelli/Getty ImagesTrophy in hand, Messi led his team off the plane at Ezeiza International Airport, where they were greeted by a massive crowd of supporters.Tomas Cuesta/Agence France-Presse — Getty ImagesThe team’s bus drove from the airport to the Argentina Football Association training center in Ezeiza, in the Buenos Aires province.Rodrigo Valle/Getty ImagesFans young and old sang in the streets before, during and after seeing the players’ bus drive by.Argentina’s national team paraded through the capital in a bus as fans cheered and welcomed them home.By The Associated PressArgentina’s national team paraded through the capital in a bus as fans cheered and welcomed them home.Marcelo Endelli/Getty ImagesLionel Messi, Rodrigo de Paul, Leandro Paredes, Lautaro Martínez and Julián Álvarez were among the players seen singing from the open-top bus that transported them to the training center.Mariana Nedelcu/ReutersFans and players have adopted a song with lyrics modified by a fan, “Muchachos, Ahora Nos Volvimos a Ilusionar,” as the unofficial anthem of their World Cup run.Tomas Cuesta/Agence France-Presse — Getty ImagesFans cheered from the base to the peak of Buenos Aires’s iconic Obelisk.Luis Robayo/Agence France-Presse — Getty ImagesThe team’s official parade began in earnest on Tuesday with players again touring a 50-mile route through the city in buses. More

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    Argentina’s Most Sacred World Cup Watch Party: Maradona’s Former Home

    A Buenos Aires businessman bought Diego Maradona’s old house and has been opening it up for Argentina’s World Cup matches, meat included.BUENOS AIRES — Argentina had just punched its ticket to the World Cup final with a 3-0 victory over Croatia on Tuesday, but most Argentines at the party simply wanted to poke around this stranger’s house.There was a retiree taking selfies in a mirrored corner bar. A house cleaner hung out the window of a bare bedroom. A tattoo artist checked out a backed-up toilet upstairs. And a hotel owner who had brought his mother-in-law was wandering around barefoot.“When I entered, I started crying,” said Osvaldo Bonacchi, 52, an air-conditioner repairman, who was starting to tear up again on the spiral staircase leading to the carpeted attic, where someone said there used to be a sauna. He had lived nearby for 15 years, and always wondered what it was like inside.“To be here is a dream,” he said.The battered, three-story brick chalet in a quiet Buenos Aires neighborhood once belonged to the Argentine soccer hero Diego Maradona, and in this World Cup, it has become one of the hottest places in Argentina to watch a match.A local entrepreneur bought the house last month and has opened the doors for the past several games, paying for drinks and more than 1,000 pounds of meat for hundreds of friends, neighbors and strangers crowded around Maradona’s backyard pool to cheer on the national team.The bar in Maradona’s former home.Ariel Fernando García, the new owner of the home, with his daughters on what was once Maradona’s balcony.“We started letting people in, and then they collapsed and started crying,” the house’s new owner, Ariel Fernando García, 47, said of the first party. “For me, he was an extraterrestrial,” he said of Maradona. “No man has given more joy to Argentines.”Maradona died of a heart attack in 2020 at age 60 but remains one of Argentina’s biggest figures. His story of a poor Buenos Aires boy rising to become one of history’s greatest soccer players and the leader of Argentina’s 1986 World Cup championship team has made him a sort of deity in this nation of 46 million.In fact, the Church of Maradona is a legally recognized religion in Argentina, now entering its 25th year, that claims tens of thousands of members with branches around the world. Some Google searches will return a little box of questions that other people searched, starting with: “Is Diego Maradona a God?”A Brief Guide to the 2022 World CupCard 1 of 9What is the World Cup? More

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    Mourning in Argentina Where Diego Maradona Walked

    In front of Estadio Diego Armando Maradona, the stadium of Argentinos Juniors, where Maradona first played professionally.Mourning at the Places Where ‘El Dios’ WalkedDuring three national days of mourning for Diego Maradona, Argentines traveled — sometimes hundreds of miles — to honor him at the sites where his talent once made them smile.In front of Estadio Diego Armando Maradona, the stadium of Argentinos Juniors, where Maradona first played professionally.Credit…Supported byContinue reading the main storyPhotographs by More